A New Way To Wine

TECHNIQUE

Nov 17

Tips on building a wine list that works for everyone from Sommelier Thibaut Idenn of Alla Vita and Boka

In today’s restaurants, the role of the sommelier is more complex than ever. Beyond upselling and bottle collecting, wine pros must be adept servers, managers, curators, storytellers, and environmentalists in a world where house margins are just getting thinner.

That is certainly the case at the West Loop’s Alla Vita, where Wine Director Thibaut Idenn has taken a thoughtful approach to building a wine program that doesn’t sacrifice experience for dollars. “Alla Vita for me is about what I really like about wine—bringing people together and it being a celebration of food and wine. The wine isn't here to take over the discussion, it's here to support the party.” A few tactics give Idenn the flexibility to build a list that’s exciting and delicious, yet accessible to a wide variety of guests. “There are so many things that are impossible to get now, so how do we train a new generation of drinkers?”

Buying

Being savvy with purchasing starts with a strong, two-way relationship with distributors. “I ask my partners to recommend wine that they would like to sell, but maybe have a hard time [pushing]. You find some amazing wines that people don’t even think about.” Having an open line of communication benefits both parties and moves wine that often gets overlooked. “It’s not about finding specific producers, but being able to go beyond the label. Does it make sense for your program? Does it taste good?” Scoring good deals also requires agility. “Being able to have balance [on your list] requires more flexibility in your purchasing practice. Constantly being on the lookout for good deals allows you to have wines that aren't heavily marked up. For wines that are more rare, our markups are more classic, but for everyday wines that are popular, I try to be more balanced. It requires a bit of gymnastics with timing of purchases.”

By The Bottle

Whatever your selection may be, how you structure the list can make or break sales. “When I took over [the program], the list was organized by regions, but the problem with that is, if I'm the customer, I don't know exactly what I'm getting. Italy for example is so diverse, in the same region you'll get all different styles. So, we separate it by bright, lean, and clean [wines], then things with more weight, then things with more texture. The focus is on the wine itself, and then the guest can determine their price.”

By The Glass

“At Alla Vita, the most popular glass is always sauvignon blanc, no matter what. So you know that's your opportunity to find the best quality at the best price and leverage that.“ Idenn relies on sales from less expensive glasses to support a lower markup on more coveted offerings—keeping that pinot grigio at $13 a glass makes room for the $26 nebbiolo.

Pairing

“I read an article about a couple of sommeliers, and they were saying ‘never order the wine pairing, it's a throwaway,’ but I completely disagree. That's the place to tell the story, and show people things they wouldn't have seen otherwise.” To pair with Chef Darren Underway’s green garlic ravioli with asparagus and morels for example, Idenn recommends Cogno nascetta from the Langhe, a veritable steal at $66 a bottle. “This is from one of the most established family estates [in the Langhe]. They make stunning Barolo and nebbiolo, but this is a totally different style. A lot of the time people aren't writing about and promoting those wines, so it requires more research.”

“What we have to do as wine professionals is really be a voice to promote wine overall. I say wine is like music: everyone can enjoy it. You don't have to be trained to listen to music. If you are, you'll be able to hear nuance and technicality but if not, it doesn’t forbid you from listening.”

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