Estevan Silva
Quince, Cotogna, and Verjus | San Francisco
JUNE 2019
After growing up in Los Angeles, Estevan Silva found himself in the savory program at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena. He was never really interested in going to college but something about culinary school excited him. In 2009, Silva moved to New York for his first post-grad gig. At WD~50, he had accepted a position in pastry for the opportunity to work with Wylie Dufresne and Alex Stupak. When his funds ran out, Silva returned to L.A. and spent a year at Tom Colicchio’s Craft followed by three years at Suzanne Goin’s legendary Lucques. Silva also had a couple “odd jobs” now and again, such as donut-making for Nickel Diner in DTLA.
Silva’s interest in bread led him to San Francisco where he assisted his friend with the bread program at Quince and Cotogna, eventually taking the reins himself. He continued to build relationships with some of the most established bakers on the West Coast—Jorgen Carlesen of Jane Bakery, Mac McConnell of Midwife and the Baker, Mike Zakowski of The Bejkr, Craig Ponsford of Ponsford’s Place—offering his time in exchange for knowledge.
As executive baker of the Michael and Lindsay Tusk triumvirate, Quince, Cotogna, and Verjus, Silva is flexing every baking muscle, including the one that cranks his tabletop mill. His eclectic, grain-driven, flavor-forward, sourdough-doesn’t-have-to-be-sour style delivers scrumptious surprises at each venue. Verjus will soon expand to retail, where Silva’s breads will reach an even larger audience.
