Chocolate and Barley
Barley Ice Cream, Malt Ice Cream, Cacao Nib, Cardamom Crémeux, Malted Shortbread, Liquid Chocolate Shortbread, Chocolate Crunch
Pastry Chef Manuela Sanin of Eleven Madison Park | New York
Yield: 50 servings
Adapted by StarChefs | February 2019
INGREDIENTS:
Barley Ice Cream:
375 grams barley
1.063 kilograms milk, plus additional as needed
322 grams heavy cream
187 grams dextrose
37 grams trimoline
56 grams sugar
5 grams salt
11 grams Cremodan ice cream stabilizer
118 grams milk powder
Malt Ice Cream:
112 grams barley
178 grams malt powder
2591 grams milk, plus additional as needed
247 grams heavy cream
37 grams sugar
37 grams trimoline
75 grams glucose powder
7 grams salt
9 grams Cremodan ice cream stabilizer
75 grams milk powder
Cacao Nib Vinegar:
150 grams cacao nibs
300 grams white balsamic vinegar
Malt Syrup:
1 kilograms glucose syrup
6 grams vanilla paste
20 grams salt
200 grams malt powder
Cacao Nib Syrup:
91 grams cacao nibs
266 grams sugar
1 gram salt
Cardamom Crémeux:
100 grams egg yolks
100 grams sugar
300 grams 70 percent chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 grams salt
250 grams milk, plus additional as needed
250 grams heavy cream
7 grams cardamom pods
Malt Crémeux:
300 grams 40 percent chocolate, coarsely chopped
50 grams 70 percent chocolate, coarsely chopped
50 grams sugar
100 grams malt powder
100 grams egg yolks
200 grams milk
200 grams heavy cream
3 grams salt
Liquid Malted Shortbread:
525 grams all-purpose flour
180 grams powdered sugar
50 grams malt powder
220 grams butter, diced
4 grams salt
166 grams grapeseed oil
Liquid Chocolate Shortbread:
484 grams all-purpose flour
12 grams cocoa powder
154 grams powdered sugar
188 grams butter
3 grams salt
171 grams grapeseed oil
Chocolate Crunch:
200 grams feuilletine
200 grams 70 percent chocolate, melted
Liquid nitrogen
Malt Crunch:
166 grams feuilletine
33 grams malt powder
166 grams 40 percent chocolate, melted
To Assemble and Serve:
Golden yeast extract
METHOD:
For Barley Ice Cream:
Heat oven to 350°F. Spread barley on a sheet tray and toast until very dark and fragrant, shaking pan occasionally to evenly toast. Keep barley warm for addition to liquid ingredients. In a pot over medium-high heat, combine milk and cream; bring to a boil, add barley, remove from heat, and steep 30 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Scale mixture and record weight. Strain and scale liquid. Add enough milk to bring liquid to weight of original mixture. Return barley milk to pot, add dextrose and trimoline, and heat to 70°C. In a small bowl, whisk to combine sugar, salt, and stabilizer; whisk into base. Heat mixture to 80°C, and add milk powder. Heat to 91°C, strain through a chinois, and chill.
For the Malt Ice Cream:
Heat oven to 350°F. Spread barley on a sheet tray and toast until very dark and fragrant, shaking pan occasionally to evenly toast. Keep barley warm for addition to liquid ingredients. In a bowl, use an immersion blender to combine malt powder and 1814 grams milk, eliminating any lumps; reserve. In a pot over medium-high heat, combine cream and remaining milk. When cream mixture boils, add barley, remove from heat, and steep 30 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Scale mixture and record weight. Strain and scale liquid. Add enough milk to bring liquid to weight of original mixture. Return barley milk to pot and add dextrose and trimoline. In a small bowl, whisk to combine glucose, salt, and stabilizer. When barley milk mixture reaches 75°C, add glucose mixture. When barley milk reaches 85°C, add milk powder and malted milk. Cook to 91°C, strain through a chinois, and chill.
For the Cocoa Nib Vinegar:
In a pan over medium-high heat, toast nibs until fragrant. In a saucepot, heat vinegar to a boil, remove from heat, add nibs, and steep overnight. Strain and reduce vinegar by half; cool.
For the Malt Syrup:
In a saucepot over medium heat, combine glucose, vanilla, salt, and 200 grams Cacao Nib Vinegar. When mixture is warm, use an immersion blender to blend until smooth; shear in malt powder. Cool. Into demisphere molds, pour 8 grams Malt Syrup per mold.
For the Cocoa Nib Syrup:
In a saucepot over high heat, boil 666 grams water, add nibs, remove from heat, and steep 30 minutes. Strain and return infused water to pot. Add sugar and salt and reduce until mixture is syrupy; freeze. Thaw before assembly.
For the Cardamom Crémeux:
In a bowl, whisk to combine yolks and sugar. Place chocolate and salt in a heatproof bowl. In a saucepot, heat milk and heavy cream to a boil, remove from heat, add cardamom and, using an immersion blender, lightly break open pods. Steep 30 minutes. Scale mixture and record weight. Strain and scale liquid. Add enough milk to bring liquid to weight of original mixture. Temper yolk mixture into cardamom milk. Heat to 85°C. Pour cardamom milk over chocolate and, using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Transfer to quart containers and cover plastic wrap directly touching surface of crémeux.
For the Malt Crémeux:
Place chocolate and salt in a heatproof bowl. In a bowl, whisk to combine sugar and malt powder. Add egg yolks to make a paste. In a saucepot, bring milk and heavy cream to a boil. Temper in yolk mixture and heat to 85°C. Pour over chocolate and, using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Add salt. Transfer to quart containers and cover plastic wrap directly touching surface of crémeux.
For the Liquid Malted Shortbread:
Heat oven to 325°F. In the bowl of KitchenAid Commercial stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine flour, sugar, malt powder, butter, and salt. Mix until crumbly. On a sheet tray, evenly spread mixture and bake, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp. While warm, transfer crumbs to a food processor with the grapeseed oil. Pulse to the consistency of peanut butter. Transfer to a Vitamix blender and blend until smooth. Pass through a chinois (there should be little to no chunks in the chinois). Scale 275 gram portions into pint containers. Spray half-sheet trays with nonstick spray and line them with 28.5-centimeter by 38-centimeter sheets of hard acetate, making sure there are no air bubbles. While shortbread is liquified, pour onto the acetate, spread flat, and freeze. In the walk-in, cut shortbread into strips (5-inches long and 1.5-centimeters wide) and lay each on a 5-inch by 3-centimeter piece of acetate. Line small teardrop-shaped molds with strips. Remove acetate, trim shortbread, and freeze molds.
For the Liquid Chocolate Shortbread:
Heat oven to 325°F. In the bowl of KitchenAid Commercial stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine flour, cocoa, sugar, butter, and salt. Mix until crumbly. On a sheet tray, evenly spread mixture and bake, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp. While warm, transfer crumbs to a food processor with the grapeseed oil. Pulse to the consistency of peanut butter. Transfer to a Vitamix blender and blend until smooth. Pass through a chinois (there should be little to no chunks in the chinois). Scale 275 gram portions into pint containers. Spray half-sheet trays with nonstick spray and line them with 28.5-centimeter by 38-centimeter sheets of hard acetate, making sure there are no air bubbles. While shortbread is liquified, pour onto the acetate, spread flat, and freeze. In the walk-in, cut shortbread into strips (14.9-centimeters long and 1.5-centimeters wide) and lay each on a 14.9-centimeter acetate strip. Invert strips to line slightly larger teardrop-shaped molds with the strips. Remove acetate, trim shortbread, and freeze molds.
For the Chocolate Crunch:
To a bowl, add feuilletine. Pour chocolate over top and stir to evenly coat. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. While mixing, pour in enough nitrogen to freeze and break the mixture into pieces. While frozen, transfer to a food processor and pulse until crumbly; freeze.
For the Malt Crunch:
In a bowl, toss to combine feuilletine and malt powder. Pour chocolate over top and stir to evenly coat. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. While mixing, pour in enough nitrogen to freeze and break the mixture into pieces. While frozen, transfer to a food processor and pulse until crumbly; freeze.
To Assemble and Serve:
Into the large teardrop molds lined with chocolate shortbread, pipe the Cardamom Crémeux, making sure to create a cavity for the Barley Ice Cream. Spread ½ teaspoon Chocolate Crunch atop crémeux. Fill the cavity with Barley Ice Cream, leaving a little room in the mold for the Cocoa Nib Syrup. Add the syrup, using an offset spatula to smooth and seal the surface; freeze. Into the small teardrop molds lined with malted shortbread, pipe the Malt Crémeux, making sure to create a cavity for the Malt Ice Cream. Spread ½ teaspoon Malt Crunch atop crémeux. Fill the cavity with Malt Ice Cream, leaving a little room in the mold for the Malt Syrup. Add the syrup, using an offset spatula to smooth and seal the surface; freeze. When set, remove larger teardrops from molds and dip in liquid nitrogen to help remove the acetate strip cleanly. Return teardrops freezer to temper. Unmold the smaller teardrops, remove the acetate strips, dip again the tops only in nitrogen, sprinkle tops with malt extract, and torch to form a crisp brûlée. Place 1 of each teardrop at 3 and 5 O’clock with their points overlapping about 1 centimeter.
