Mahlab Crémeux

PASTRY

Jun 30

Rhubarb Gelée, Poached Rhubarb, Mint Oil, Toasted Milk Crunch

Pastry Chef Tara Lewis of Tusk | Portand, OR

INGREDIENTS

Mahlab Crémeux:
Yield: 2 cups
141 grams TCHO Choco Blanco 35% white chocolate
85 grams whole milk
3 grams mahlab powder
4 grams glucose
2½ sheets silver gelatin, bloomed
170 grams heavy cream

Rhubarb Gelée:
Yield: 2 cups
1.193 kilograms chopped rhubarb
132 grams sugar
2 grams amchur powder
2¾ sheets silver gelatin, bloomed

Poached Rhubarb:
Yield: 4 cups
1 quart diced rhubarb
500 grams sugar
½ Tahitian vanilla bean, scraped
2 grams amchur powder

Mint Oil:
Yield: ¾ cup
54 grams mint leaves
164 grams grapeseed oil

Toasted Milk Crunch:
Yield: 1½ quarts
60 grams cornstarch
125 grams sugar
275 grams melted butter
300 grams milk powder
450 grams TCHO Choco Blanco 35% white chocolate
1½ grams salt

To Assemble and Serve:
Rhubarb ribbon

METHOD

For the Mahlab Crémeux:
Place chocolate in a large metal mixing bowl and set aside. In a saucepan over medium-high flame, heat milk, mahlab, and glucose to 170°F. Once heated, gently whisk in gelatin, then pour milk mixture over the chocolate. Using an immersion blender, blend mixture until smooth. Whisk in cream and strain. Fill circular silicone molds with 75 grams of the mixture. Freeze overnight.

For the Rhubarb Gelée:
In a nonreactive container, combine rhubarb, sugar, and amchur. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, transfer rhubarb mixture to a mixing bowl. Cook over a double boiler 3 to 4 hours, or until juices from the rhubarb are extracted. Strain and discard rhubarb chunks. Whisk in gelatin, then strain mixture and let cool to room temperature. Remove Mahlab Crémeux from freezer. Pour 20 grams of the rhubarb mixture into each mold on top of the frozen base. Freeze overnight.

For the Poached Rhubarb:
Place rhubarb in a heat-proof bowl. Set aside. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring sugar, vanilla, amchur, and 500 grams water to a boil. Pour mixture over rhubarb. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

For the Mint Oil:
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add mint and blanch 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, remove mint and squeeze out excess water. Transfer to a Vitamix blender and blend on high speed. Slowly stream in oil until mixture begins to steam and oil breaks from the purée, about 1 minute. Strain through a cheesecloth overnight. The next day, discard the solids and reserve.

For the Toasted Milk Crunch:
Heat oven to 275°F. In a mixing bowl, whisk together cornstarch, sugar, salt, melted butter, and 200 grams milk powder. Spread mixture evenly onto a silpat-lined sheet tray. Bake 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Over a double boiler, melt chocolate. Remove from heat. Stir in toasted milk powder mixture, then add in remaining 100 grams milk powder. Spread evenly onto a new silpat-lined sheet tray. Refrigerate 1 hour. Chop mixture into desired consistency and reserve.

To Assemble and Serve:
Remove 1 Mahlab Crémeux from mold and refrigerate to temper. Once tempered, place Mahlab Crémeux on a serving plate at the 10 o’clock position. Top with 15 grams Poached Rhubarb, with the rhubarb slightly cascading off the edge the Crémeux. Arrange 15 grams Toasted Milk Crunch in 3 piles around the plate. Drizzle plate with 2 grams Mint Oil. Garnish with rhubarb curl.

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